FROM THE JOURNAL

Hong Kong,
our way

A few days of moving around one of Asia's great cities — looking down from the Peak, crossing the harbour, wandering old streets, finding good places to eat and getting out of the city whenever we can.

HONG KONG · A PERSONAL NOTE

Hong Kong is one of those places that never really feels the same twice. We have been coming back for years, often for work, and somehow there is always another corner to discover. For us, the best way to spend a few days here is simply to keep moving — from the mountains to the beach, across the harbour, through the old streets and, when time allows, out beyond the city itself.

01

LOOKING DOWN

Start at the Peak

There are plenty of ways to see Hong Kong, but starting from the Peak gives you the full picture. Victoria Harbour stretches out below, the towers seem to rise from every available piece of land and suddenly the scale of the city makes sense.

We never really get tired of that view. Even after all the visits, standing there and looking across the harbour is one of those moments that reminds you just how extraordinary Hong Kong is.

02

SLOWING DOWN

Then head for the beach

Repulse Bay is a completely different side of Hong Kong. After the noise and density of Central, the open stretch of sand and sea feels like a change of country rather than a change of neighbourhood.

We like coming out here without too much of a plan — spend some time on the beach, walk around the bay and settle in for lunch. TIDES is the sort of place that makes it easy to turn a quick stop into a lazy afternoon.

The trick with Hong Kong is to keep changing your viewpoint. Above the skyline. Across the harbour. Down an old street. Out towards the islands.

03

CROSSING THE HARBOUR

Take the Star Ferry

It is one of the simplest things you can do in Hong Kong, and still one of our favourites.

Jump on the Star Ferry and head across to Kowloon. Once you are on the other side, turn around and look back. Seeing Hong Kong Island from the water, rather than from somewhere between its skyscrapers, gives you a completely different perspective.

It costs very little, takes hardly any time and somehow still feels like part of the experience rather than just a way of getting somewhere.

04

GET LOST

Wander Sheung Wan

This is where we like Hong Kong at its most interesting. Leave the big roads behind and start walking.

Around Sheung Wan you can spend an afternoon browsing little shops and market stalls, looking at old trinkets, traditional pieces and the sort of gifts you never knew you were looking for.

Keep walking towards Hollywood Road and Soho and the character changes again. Old Hong Kong, contemporary galleries, tiny shops, fantastic bars and some very good restaurants all seem to sit within a few streets of one another.

WHERE WE'D STAY

The Pottinger

If we were choosing a base for a few days of exploring, The Pottinger would be hard to ignore. Its location in Central puts you right in the middle of everything we enjoy about this part of Hong Kong — Soho, Hollywood Road, the bars and restaurants, and the streets that make wandering around here so much fun.

It is the kind of hotel where you can walk out of the door with no real plan and still find yourself somewhere interesting a few minutes later.

CENTRAL · HONG KONG

AROUND THE TABLE

Eat your way
around Central

Hong Kong is a city where we rarely need much convincing to go out for dinner. These are three places that have stayed on our list.

NEW YORK · ITALIAN

Carbone

For when the evening calls for something a little more glamorous. Carbone brings the old-school New York restaurant feeling to Wyndham Street, and it is one of those dinners that feels like an occasion.

FRENCH · BISTRO

Jean-Pierre

A smaller, more relaxed option when what you want is good French food without making the whole evening feel like an event. Exactly the sort of place we like finding when we are back in Central.

THAI · CASUAL

Samsen

And then there is Samsen — the more casual choice. Great Thai food, relaxed surroundings and the sort of place you can happily drop into after a day of walking around the city.

05 · GET OUT

Leave the
skyscrapers behind

One of the things we like most about Hong Kong is how quickly the city disappears. Give yourself a little time and you can be walking a trail, looking across the sea or sitting somewhere that feels a world away from Central.

If you enjoy hiking, there are plenty of routes to choose from. It is worth building at least half a day into a visit simply to see this side of Hong Kong.

Lamma Island

An easy escape from the city, with walking trails, coastal views and the chance to slow the pace down for a few hours. The seafood around Sok Kwu Wan is another good reason to make the trip.

Lantau

For something a little more adventurous, head out towards Lantau. The island opens up another side of Hong Kong — mountains, beaches, hiking trails and a much quieter landscape than the city centre.

THE HONG KONG EDIT

See it from above.
See it from the water.

Walk the old streets. Eat somewhere memorable. Spend an afternoon at the beach. Then get out of the city for a day. That is probably our favourite way to do Hong Kong — not trying to tick everything off, but moving around enough to keep discovering another version of it.

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